Reimagining Indian Techniques
Modern Thewa Jewelry
Laura Margaret Design is a collaboration between Indian thewa artisans and an American metalsmith and jewelry maker that spent a year in India as an apprentice. Thewa is the fusion of a thin sheet of gold to colored glass. Each piece is hand crafted in this time-honored technique, then paired with colorful gems and semi-precious stones. I hope these fun and colorful creations bring new life to a traditional art form. Shop the store.
How Thewa is made
Gold Fused to Glass
Thewa is the art of fusing a pierced sheet of 22k gold to colored glass. It originated in the 1760s and continues today, however with dwindling demand and popularity. The artisans fix a sheet of gold to a board covered with wax, allowing them to create a delicate cut-out design with iron tools. By sandwiching the gold sheet to cut glass, the artisans create the look of imitation enamel. The two materials are fused in an oven using a process that is a guarded trade secret in the village of Pratabgarh.
Thewa WORKSHOP: Raghav Raj Soni and his Uncle of Pratabgarh
Vase made of thewa BY raj soni
GoLd foil mounted on wax board
Gold Foil Removed from wax
Fusion Complete!
A jeweler in india
My Story
I spent a year in Rajasthan as a Henry Luce Scholar studying Indian goldsmithing techniques. Shadowing the artisans in the village of Pratabgarh inspired me to create a line of colorful adornments that would highlight their craft. Read about me.
Symbolism and cultural significance
Common Motifs
Peacock
The national bird of India as well as being an auspicious symbol in Hinduism. A symbol of immortality and spirituality.
Fan
A common shape for fans made of textiles that was operate by hand or suspending from ceilings. The scalloped outline resembles doorways of North-Indian architecture.
Elephant
A sacred animal and a symbol of royalty in India. Maharajas used to ride on elephants during processions and in war.
Flower
Indian metalsmiths are inspired by local flora and fauna. Scrolling vines and flowers project a feeling of lush paradise.